Free patterns


Free Easter pattern: lamb’s ears for hoods and snoods!

When I was designing the above hooded onesie, for the longest time I couldn’t decide wether to put lamb’s ears or bear ears on the hood. In the end I went with the lamb’s ears, not only because they fit the overall look and yarn choice better, but also because a) lamb’s ears for a hood are more rare, and b) it seemed a good way of tricking myself into thinking that Easter (and warm weather) is just around the corner, because lambs, and, you know, spring….please?

*buries head in ice cold hands*

After some experimentation I came up with a shape and look that I think will turn every hood into the epitome of cuteness (particularly when combined with a puff stitch or other structured design). Enjoy!

lamb_ears

The ultimate lamb’s ears for hoods and snoods:)

Yarn: any worsted weight yarn (less than half a skein)
Hook: 5mm / H 8 US / 6 UK
Level: advanced beginner
Finished ears measure about 7 cm / 2.5 inches.

START: make a magic loop.

Row 1
Into magic loop, do 4 puff st | ch 1, pull up long loop, turn

Row 2
Do 2 puff st in every st | ch 1, pull up long loop, turn (8 puff st)

Row 3
Inc in st 1-2 | 4 puff st | inc in st 7-8 (12 puff st)

Row 4
Inc in st 1-2 | 3 puff st | in st 6-7, do dc-four-together* | 3 puff st | inc in st 11-12 (15 puff st)

Row 5
Ch 1, turn work 45 degrees counterclockwise | 12 sl st along the bottom of the work (divide evenly) | ch 1, turn

Row 6
Right ear: 6 puff st | 6 sc | ch 1, turn
Left ear: 6 sc | 6 puff st | ch 1, turn**

Row 7
Right ear: 6 sc | 6 puff st | ch 1, turn
Left ear: 6 puff st | 6 sc | ch 1, turn

Row 8
Right ear: 6 puff st | 6 sc | ch 1, turn
Left ear: 6 sc | 6 puff st | ch 1, turn

Yo, pull through to knot off, cut yarn and work in end.

* = do a dc-two-together in the first st, but instead of finishing, you leave 3 loops on the hook. Do a dc-two-together in the second st. You have 5 loops on the hook. Yo and pull through all 5.

** = Left/right for the wearer, not the viewer.

Here’s a chart for the right ear!

ear_small

Assembly
With the front of the ear (even rows) facing you, fold double (it will want to curl naturally). Because you made sc on one half for the bottom rows, one side should be shorter than the other. Pin the short ‘sc’ sides of the ears to the hood. Then pin the longer ‘puff st’ sides on top of them, so that the ears slant downward. When satisfied with poisition of the ears, sew them to the hood. You’re all done!

hood

As always, feel free to use in whatever (commercial) project you want. Links and mentions get you brownie points! Please do NOT redistribute this pattern, copy, quote, sell or present as your own.

Happy lamb-making, guys! 🙂

 


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Free pattern: crocheted sock yarn square! 1

When I decided to join a Temperature Blanket KAL/CAL for 2016, the first thing I did was search for pretty patterns – duh! I came across this one, which basically has everything I want: sock yarn ( because I’m a masochist and ADORE the look and softness), interesting shapes and colors, and knitted, for a great drape.

sockyarnblanketPattern here
(by the great Shelly Kang from The Heathen Housewife)

Only problem is: I’m a novice knitter, and when I did a test square I discovered it took me 4 hours just to knit one square. Even this masochistic crafter – always willing to suffer for beauty! – has her limits, so I came up with a crocheted alternative:).

Note before we start: PLEASE READ PATTERN NOTES CAREFULLY. I always like everyone to feel included, but this really is a bit of an advanced pattern. I tried several simplified versions, but none looked as good as the original. The pattern uses a few quirky/unusual techniques, so read thoroughly before diving in!

squaresKnitted version on the left, crocheted on the right.

CROCHETED SOCK YARN SQUARE

NOTES
Size:
the pattern as written here will give you a square of 14 cm (5.5 inches) corner to corner. Please check gauge if needed.
Hook: we’ll work the sock yarn with a relatively large 4mm (US G/6) hook. This will give us the same soft drape as the knitted version.
Front/back side: for this project, the second row you work (even rows) will be your front side.
Stitches: the square is worked in half double crochet (hdc).
Loops worked: on the uneven rows (back), we’ll go into the ‘regular’ loops of the hdc. On the even rows (front) we’ll go into the front loop (as seen from this side) of the ‘regular’ stitch, and the ‘extra’ loop of the hdc-s.  If you don’t know about the extra loop on hdc-s, I encourage you to google that first:)

Confusing? Here are some visuals (click to embiggen) and a mnemonic device: on the uneven rows, the stitch your hook is under looks like a ‘v’ with the point facing left. On the even rows, the stitch your hook is under looks like a ‘v’ with the point facing right.
stitches1stitches_back

stitches_front

NOTES (CONTINUED)
Decreases:
Decrease 1 (front): over next 6 stitches, do the following:
Yo, go into st 1, pull up a loop. Go into st 2 without yo, pull up a loop. You have four loops on your hook. Yo, go into the front post of st 3, pull up loop. You have six loops on your hook. Yo, go through two. Yo, go through five.
Yo, go into the front post of st 4, pull up loop. Yo, pull through two. You have two loops on your hook. Yo, go into st 5, pull up loop. Go into st 6 without yo, pull up a loop. You have five loops on your hook. Yo, go through five. You have decreased from 6 to 2 stitches.

Decrease 2 (back): over next 4 stitches, do the following:
Yo, go into the back post(s) of st 4 and 5 from decrease 1 (now one decreased st). Be careful only to go around the post(s) of st 4/5, and leave the part where you just made a front post dc alone. Yo, go through two, yo, go through two. You have now made a back post dc. Skip the two decreased st from decrease 1. In the next ‘normal’ st (see chart), make a second back post dc. You have decreased from 4 to 2 stitches.

Decrease 3 (front): over next 4 stitches, do the following:
Yo, go into st 1, pull up loop. Yo, go into front post of st 2, pull up loop. You have five loops on your hook. Yo, go through two, yo, go through four.
Yo, go into front post of st 3, pull up loop. Yo, go through two. Yo, go into st 4, pull up loop. You have four loops on your hook. Yo, go through four, You have decreased from 4 to 2 st.
Note: watching these decreases in the chart will help you understand them in their context!

WRITTEN PATTERN AND CHART
Note: chart is just for teaching purposes; width and height of stitches is different in reality. Don’t make the decrease st too loose. Click on the chart for a full-size version!

Row 1: work 42 hdc foundation stitches.  Ch 2, turn.
If you don’t know how to do foundation stitches, you can substitute 44 ch, crochet in 3rd ch from hook and all other ch. Ch 2, turn. These 2 rows will count as your row 1.
Row 2 (from now on, this is the front of your work. See note on which loops to work):
18 hdc | do decrease 1 | 18 hdc. Ch2, turn. (38 st)
Row 3 (from now on, this is the back of your work. See note on which loops to work):
17 hdc | do decrease 2 | 17 hdc. Ch 2, turn. (36 st)
Row 4: 15 hdc | do decrease 1 | 15 hdc. Ch2, turn. (32 st)
Row 5: 14 hdc | do decrease 2 | 14 hdc. Ch 2, turn. (30 st)
Row 6: 12 hdc | do decrease 1 | 12 hdc. Ch2, turn. (26 st)
Row 7: 11 hdc | do decrease 2 | 11 hdc. Ch 2, turn. (24 st)
Row 8: 10 hdc | do decrease 3 | 10 hdc. Ch2, turn. (22 st)
Row 9: 9 hdc | do decrease 2 | 9 hdc. Ch 2, turn. (20 st)
Row 10: 7 hdc | do decrease 1 | 7 hdc. Ch2, turn. (16 st)
Row 11: 6 hdc | do decrease 2 | 6 hdc. Ch 2, turn. (14 st)
Row 12: 5 hdc | do decrease 3 | 5 hdc. Ch2, turn. (12 st)
Row 13: 4 hdc | do decrease 2 | 4 hdc. Ch 2, turn. (10 st)
Row 14: 2 hdc | do decrease 1 | 2 hdc. Ch 2. turn. (6 st)
Row 15: 1 hdc | do decrease 2 | 1 hdc. Ch 1, turn. (4st)
Finish: No yo. Go into st 1, pull up loop. Go into fr post of st 2, pull up loop. Go into fr post of st 3, pull up loop. Go into st 4, pull up loop. Yo, go through all five loops on your hook. Yo and pull through to secure, cut yarn and work in end.

Here’s the complete chart! (click to embiggen)

TO ATTACH SQUARES FOR BLANKET: 
Place two squares next to each other with the top points facing up. Attach new yarn in top stitch of right square, and sl st down the side to the left corner, picking up 21 st total (divide evenly). Now sl st up the right side of the left square to the top, picking up 21 st. Ch 2, turn, work 42 hdc. Ch 2, turn. You can now work your new square from row 2 as normal.

Have fun!!

therapysquare_small

 


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Free pattern: Rudolph ornament!

This cute Rudolph started out as an experiment with home made amigurumi eyes (remind me to write another post about that!).
A friend of mine had been hinting for a while that she’d like a cute ornament to hang in her Christmas tree, so once I had the eyes, I combined them with her wish into one efficient, doe-eyed package of cuteness. With antlers. Waaaaaah.

kerstrendier

Project will cost around 4-6 hours to make, depending on your speed and experience. It’s worked in continuous rounds.

Rudolph the red-nosed Christmas tree ornament

WHAT YOU NEED
– brown, black, green, red, white yarn
– pair of amigurumi eyes (or picot knots, felt eyes, whatever else you prefer)
– tapestry needle
– stuffing
– pair of scissors.

HEAD (brown)
NB: You’ll start by working around a chain, not in a magic loop!
Round 1: ch 5
Round 2: sc in 2nd ch from hook, 2sc | in last ch, do 3sc | 2sc | inc (10 st)

(Neatest way to crochet into a chain)

Round 3: inc, 2sc | in next 3 st, inc | 2sc, inc, inc (16 st)
Round 4-6: sc around (16 st)
Round 7: *inc, 1sc* four times, inc, 7sc (21 st)
Round 8-9: sc around (21 st)
Round 10 (short rows): *ch, turn, 12sc* twice
Round 11: sc around (21 st)

Start stuffing head. Attach eyes between round 7 and 8 or 8 and 9. Place them close together for that goofy ‘Wallace and Gromit’ look:).

Round 12: *dec, 5sc* three times (18 st)
Round 13: sc around (18 st)
Round 14: *dec, 1sc* six times (12 st)

Finish stuffing.

Round 15: dec six times (6 st)

Cut yarn, pull through and weave close with tapestry needle.

BODY (brown)
Round 1: 6sc in magic loop.
(Don’t know how to make a magic loop? Here’s a tutorial!)
Round 2: inc in every st (12 st)
Round 3: *inc, 1sc* six times (18 st)
Round 4-7: sc around (18 st)

Start stuffing.

Round 8: *dec, 4sc* three times (15 st)
Round 9: *dec, 3sc* three times (12 st)

Finish stuffing.

Round 10: *dec, 2sc* three times (9 st)
Round 11: sc around (9 st)

Cut yarn, pull through. Flatten ‘neck’ (not stuffed).
Sew onto head so that head tilts a bit forward.

ARM (black/brown, make 2)
Round 1: 6sc in magic loop with black. Finish off, sew in end. Attach brown thread invisibly (Here’s a tutorial!).
Round 2 (brown): *inc, 1sc* three times (9 st)
Round 3-6: sc around (9 st)

Cut yarn, pull through. Flatten top of arm. Sew arms on, up around 2/3rd of the body height (leaving room for the scarf).

ANTLER (black, make 2)
Round 1: ch 9
Round 2: sc in 2nd ch, 7sc along chain (8 st)
Round 3: ch, turn. Go into bl of first sc and one loop of first ch. 4 sl st ‘along the side’ of round 2. Ch 4, sc in 2nd ch, 2sc.

You should now have a forked shape. Cut yarn, pull through, and attach the ‘fork’ to the ‘main stem’. Weave yarn back down to the antler base and sew onto the head.

SCARF (green, white, red)
Round 1 (C1): foundation sc 4, ch, turn
Round 2 (C1): 4sc, pick up new color, turn
Round 3 (C2): 4sc – crochet over C1 with the first sc – ch, turn
Round 4 (C2): 4sc, pick up C3, turn
Round 5 (C3): 4sc – crochet over C1 and C2 with the first sc – ch, turn
Round 6 (C3): 4sc, pick up C1, turn

…etc.

Cut off long strand of yarn, pull through. With wrong side facing,
fold double, bring up ‘turning side’ to ‘changing color side’
and sew together. With right side facing, arrange around neck,
sew one end onto the chest and the other end to the side of the jaw.

EAR (brown, make 2)
Round 1: 6sc in magic loop
Round 2: *inc, 2sc* two times (8 st)
Round 3: *inc, 3sc* two times (10 st)
Round 4-6: sc around (10 st)

Flatten, fold double. Ch, turn, make 3 sl st on top of ear. Cut yarn, pull through. Attach underneath antlers at a downward slant for maximum cuteness.

NOSE: with red yarn, go in and out a row of stitches vertically, on the front of the snout.

Now all you need to do is attach a loop of your choosing to the top of the head (between the antlers) and you’re DONE!

 Please…
feel free to use these notes for whatever (commercial) project you desire! I appreciate a mention or link, but it’s not necessary.
Please DO NOT take this pattern, or the images, and charge people money for it.

Have fun, and happy whatever you celebrate!! 🙂

kerstrendiersides


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Free pattern: bebop stitch! (great for blankets, scarves etc) 8

Like so many inventions in life, this stitch was kind of an accident.

I was trying to teach myself how to knit so I could recreate the bumpy texture on my new Blueblood vest. After failing rather spectacularly with the knitting – I *have* managed to teach myself since; no idea what went wrong that day – I was so frustrated that I decided to create my own bumpy stitch, but in crochet.

STICKING IT TO THE MAN! TAKE THAT, KNITTING GODDESS!!

(…)

Anyway, this is what came out.

Repeating the stitch over a larger surface creates a vibrant texture that lends an interesting dynamic without being too overpowering.
I know that sounds like I’m a used car salesman on a poetry high, but it’s true. Oh, and I decided to call it the bebop stitch, because the puff stitches go up and down like jazz notes. See?

bebopkleinst

THE BEBOP STITCH

Gauge: with a worsted weight yarn and a 5 mm/H size hook, 10 completed bebop stitches measure 20 cm/8 inches.
NB. I crochet pretty tightly.

Level: intermediate to advanced

To start
Chain a multitude of 4, plus an extra 4. Example: chaining 80 (plus 4) will give you 20 bebop stitches and a total width of 40 cm/16 inches.

Indication for baby (crib) blanket: width of 100 cm/40 inches: chain 200 + 4 = 204 for a total of 50 bb st. Work up to desired height.
Indication for cowl: 70 cm / 28 inches around neck: chain 140 + 4 = 144 for a total of 35 bb st. Work in turned rows or turned rounds (join rows as you go if desired)

Row 1
Yarn over (yo), go into 5th ch from hook, do 7-loop puff st | skip 2 ch, sl st into the next ch (8th ch from hook). Your completed stitch should look like this, with the sl st in the 8th ch.

Completed_stitch
*Ch 4, yo, go into next ch | do 7-loop puff st, skip 2 ch, and sl st into next ch*
Repeat *…* until you’ve used up all your chains and sl stitched into the last chain. In this case, you repeat the sequence four times total. Ch 4, turn your work around.

After completing row 1, your work should look like this.

row_12

Row 2
Skip the 1st sl st, puff st and ch, and sl st into the next ch | *ch 4. Yo, go into next ch, do 7-loop puff st | skip next ch, sl st, puff st, ch | sl st into the next ch*
NB. You always work the sl st and puff st in the middle two ch (ch 2-3) of the ch 4 repetitions from the previous row.
Repeat *…* until you’re at the last 4 ch repetition from row 1. After your last sl st, ch 2 and do a dc in the next ch. Chain 4, turn work. Note that you should have one less puff stitch in the even row.

Here’s what your finished row 2 should look like.

row_123

Row 3
Yo and go into the 1st ch (after dc), do 7-loop puff st | skip next ch, sl st, puff st, ch | sl st into the next ch. *Ch 4, yo | do 7-loop puff st, skip next ch, sl st, puff st, ch | sl st into the next ch.*
Repeat *…* until you’re at the last 4ch repetition from row 2. Sl st into the 2ndch, chain 4. Note that you should have one more puff stitch in the odd row. Here’s what your finished row 3 should look like.

row_1234

Repeat row 2 and 3 until you reach desired length. That’s all there is to the bebop stitch!

Uneven edges fix
Depending on your tension, your edges might become uneven.
Here are some fixes!

Left edge (as seen above), too tight: ch 5 instead of 4 at the end of each uneven row.
Left edge, too loose: sl st into the 3rd instead of 2nd ch on the last 4 ch repetition from the even (previous) row.
Right edge, too tight: do tr instead of dc.
Right edge, too loose: do hdc instead of dc, OR dc into the 4th instead of 3rd ch on the last 4 ch repetition from the uneven (previous) row.

Please…
feel free to use this stitch for whatever (commercial) project you desire! I appreciate a mention or link, but it’s not necessary.
Please DO NOT take this pattern, or the images, and charge people money for it. Seriously, cats. That’s not bebop.

Have fun!! 🙂


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Free pattern: Angel candle holder

Here’s my gift to you:).

Download now

pub

Pattern for a candle holder sleeve with a motif of angels. It looks fanciest in a thin cotton yarn, but I wanted to make it available for everyone so I also provided instructions to make it in a (synthetic) worsted weight yarn:).

You can make this in under one hour and you’ll need only a little bit of (scrap) yarn. A cute, fast project with a lot of bang for your buck!

Have a lovely what have you, lovelies. <3


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