Like so many inventions in life, this stitch was kind of an accident.
I was trying to teach myself how to knit so I could recreate the bumpy texture on my new Blueblood vest. After failing rather spectacularly with the knitting – I *have* managed to teach myself since; no idea what went wrong that day – I was so frustrated that I decided to create my own bumpy stitch, but in crochet.
STICKING IT TO THE MAN! TAKE THAT, KNITTING GODDESS!!
Anyway, this is what came out.
Repeating the stitch over a larger surface creates a vibrant texture that lends an interesting dynamic without being too overpowering.
I know that sounds like I’m a used car salesman on a poetry high, but it’s true. Oh, and I decided to call it the bebop stitch, because the puff stitches go up and down like jazz notes. See?
THE BEBOP STITCH
Gauge: with a worsted weight yarn and a 5 mm/H size hook, 10 completed bebop stitches measure 20 cm/8 inches.
NB. I crochet pretty tightly.
Level: intermediate to advanced
Chain a multitude of 4, plus an extra 4. Example: chaining 80 (plus 4) will give you 20 bebop stitches and a total width of 40 cm/16 inches.
Indication for baby (crib) blanket: width of 100 cm/40 inches: chain 200 + 4 = 204 for a total of 50 bb st. Work up to desired height.
Indication for cowl: 70 cm / 28 inches around neck: chain 140 + 4 = 144 for a total of 35 bb st. Work in turned rows or turned rounds (join rows as you go if desired)
Yarn over (yo), go into 5th ch from hook, do 7-loop puff st | skip 2 ch, sl st into the next ch (8th ch from hook). Your completed stitch should look like this, with the sl st in the 8th ch.
*Ch 4, yo, go into next ch | do 7-loop puff st, skip 2 ch, and sl st into next ch*
Repeat *…* until you’ve used up all your chains and sl stitched into the last chain. In this case, you repeat the sequence four times total. Ch 4, turn your work around.
After completing row 1, your work should look like this.
Skip the 1st sl st, puff st and ch, and sl st into the next ch | *ch 4. Yo, go into next ch, do 7-loop puff st | skip next ch, sl st, puff st, ch | sl st into the next ch*
NB. You always work the sl st and puff st in the middle two ch (ch 2-3) of the ch 4 repetitions from the previous row.
Repeat *…* until you’re at the last 4 ch repetition from row 1. After your last sl st, ch 2 and do a dc in the next ch. Chain 4, turn work. Note that you should have one less puff stitch in the even row.
Here’s what your finished row 2 should look like.
Yo and go into the 1st ch (after dc), do 7-loop puff st | skip next ch, sl st, puff st, ch | sl st into the next ch. *Ch 4, yo | do 7-loop puff st, skip next ch, sl st, puff st, ch | sl st into the next ch.*
Repeat *…* until you’re at the last 4ch repetition from row 2. Sl st into the 2ndch, chain 4. Note that you should have one more puff stitch in the odd row. Here’s what your finished row 3 should look like.
Repeat row 2 and 3 until you reach desired length. That’s all there is to the bebop stitch!
Uneven edges fix
Depending on your tension, your edges might become uneven.
Here are some fixes!
Left edge (as seen above), too tight: ch 5 instead of 4 at the end of each uneven row.
Left edge, too loose: sl st into the 3rd instead of 2nd ch on the last 4 ch repetition from the even (previous) row.
Right edge, too tight: do tr instead of dc.
Right edge, too loose: do hdc instead of dc, OR dc into the 4th instead of 3rd ch on the last 4 ch repetition from the uneven (previous) row.
feel free to use this stitch for whatever (commercial) project you desire! I appreciate a mention or link, but it’s not necessary.
Please DO NOT take this pattern, or the images, and charge people money for it. Seriously, cats. That’s not bebop.
Have fun!! 🙂